World Walker

If you’re headed to Berlin, you probably know by now that the city is full of museums. One museum that tends to be overlooked is the Käthe Kollwitz Museum located in the Charlottenburg area. The museum houses a collection of works created by Berlin’s most acclaimed female artist, Käthe Kollwitz.

The loss of her son in World War I, the lost of her grandson in World War II and the many sick, poor and afflicted people she worked with inspired art that many would describe as dark and depressing. Kollwitz’s work depicts heavy themes of poverty, sickness, death and fear. Visiting the museum is by no means an uplifting experience, however a visit does provide many powerful and thought provoking moments about the horrors of mankind. While the museum may seem rather small, the villa actually houses nearly five decades of work that depicts the oppressed, the sick, the needy and the dead. You’ll find an array of charcoal sketches, lithographs, scul ptures and woodcuts throughout the villa that opened in 1986.

The Käthe Kollwitz Museum is easily one of my favorite museums in Berlin and one of my top “off the beaten track” European travel tips. Kollwitz inspired me to give more consideration about the sick and the needy living in the world today. She was a true humanitarian and was never blind to the harsh realities facing her people during war. It’s nearly impossible to leave the museum without wanting to make a huge difference among people in the world.

If you find that you enjoyed the Käthe Kollwitz Museum, then I suggest heading over to the Neue Wache on the north side of Unter den Linden. The building has been used as a war memorial ever since 1931 and houses one of Kollwitz’s best works — Mother with her Dead Son. This powerful piece depicts a mother holding her dead son who died in World War II. You may notice that the sculpture mirrors the Pieta located inside of the Vatican in Rome – which depicts Mary holding Jesus Christ after the crucifixion. If you noticed this parallel, then you’re right on target. Kollwitz wanted to create a statue that showed the ultimate pain felt from a mother mourning the loss of her son. Also notice the oculus on the ceiling of the building. Kollwitz’s sculpture is placed directly under the oculus so that it is exposed to harsh weather. Being exposed to rain, snow and cold temperatures is supposed to symbolize the suffering from two World Wars.

If you love art or if you consider yourself a pacifist, then you won’t want to miss seeing work created by Germany’s most famous advocate and female pacifist, Käthe Kollwitz.

On my recent visit to Munich before Christmas, I enjoyed a bracing walk that took my breath away – literally. This was a walk of the vertical rather than horizontal kind, up the many steps of St Peter’s Church tower just by Marienplatz, in the heart of old Munich. You pay a couple of Euros for the privilege at the booth at the bottom and then keep climbing, hoping that you won’t meet too many others coming in the opposite direction, when the stairs get narrow.

View from St Peter's church tower in Munich

Not one for those who hate heights or even those who feel claustrophobic at the thought of narrow stairwalls, but once you get to the top, the view is well worth the exertion. From the top of St Peter’s you get a 360 degree view over the rooftops of Munich and down into Marienplatz, where the Christmas market was being held. If you timed you visit for 11 o’clock or noon, you’d get a birds eye view of the famous Glockenspiel on the facade of the Neues Rathaus or New Town Hall, when the painted figures turn round in time to the clock chimes.

The Cathedral tower in Valencia

The climb reminded how many church towers there are to be climbed in the cities of Europe – I’ve climbed towers in Croatia that were downright dodgy, up the Cathedral tower in Valencia and the ultimate in Church tower climbs at the Dome of St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, where the crowds were just a pressing at the top as the bottom. In all cases the view was wonderful and a great way to get a different perspective on the city.

Photos by Heatheronhertravels.com on flickr

One of the problems of visiting the Neuschwanstein Castle in southern Germany is that unless you arrive early, or are organised to book ahead online (with an extra cost), then you can spend all day waiting for your chance to tour the castle. So here’s my tip – enjoy the exterior of Neuschwanstein, especially the pretty view from the Marienbruecke (bridge), but for your peek inside a castle, pick Hohenschangau instead.

The Hohenschwangau Castle is where the designer of Neuschwanstein, crazy King Ludwig II, grew up and lived in as the building of Neuschwanstein began (it was never finished). It is walking distance from Neuschwanstein and you buy tickets at the same place – you can also get a combination ticket if you want to see inside both castles. Hohenschwangau is based on the site of a twelfth century fortress and this reconstruction took place in the 1830s. 300,000 people go through it a year, so it’s certainly not deserted, and arriving earlier in the day is still a good idea.

Those looking to visit a city rich with religious history should certainly visit the charming town of Wittenberg, Germany – a gem to historians and religious scholars. The quaint town stands as a critical milestone in the history of Christianity. Wittenberg was home to Martin Luther, the man responsible for starting the Protestant Reformation, and most travelers in Wittenberg come to see his legacy.

All visitors in Wittenberg must take time to see the church, known as the Schlosskirche (the Castle Church), where in 1517 Martin Luther nailed his 95 theses to the massive doors of the church. These theses included his arguments against the Catholic Church, which triggered the Protestant Reformation. Visitors can see the doors, now in bronze, with the 95 theses written in Latin.

The Schlosskirche of Wittenberg is quite possibly one of the most important churches in the history of Christianity. Construction of the church began in 1490, headed by architect Claus Roder. The first phase of building included the large tower, the central wing and the two stair towers. By 1502 the external walls and buttresses were finished. The church was actually built during the transition from the Gothic to the Renaissance period – meaning you’ll find details from both eras added to the beautiful structure. Many details of the church scream a traditional Gothic appeal, such as the ceiling vaults and the windows, but some of the other elements reflect the Renaissance style. The ceilings and walls of the church are ornately carved, painted and gilded. Paintings adorn the rooms and fireplaces made of hewn stone decorate the interior of the church. The interior was first designed to be more Gothic in style, plain with large windows separated by buttresses. But as the construction of the church progressed, the interior became more and more ornate, reflecting the style of the new Renaissance period.

Admission to the church is 3 Euros. The church can be visited from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Those who enjoy organ concerts should be sure to attend on a Tuesday for the weekly organ performance.

Visitors should take the time to explore the rest of the city in further detail. Look at the carefully restored and cared-for medieval buildings and appreciate a city that has not been bombarded by fast food, shopping malls and modern culture. Visit the city church, known as the Stadtkirche, to see an example of another medieval church. Notice the Judensau (Jewish sow) on the roof of the church. Martin Luther had this derogatory statue placed there to warn Jewish people of what he believed were sins. Seeing this church provides great insight into the progression of German culture over hundreds of years.

Wittenberg is well-known to Germans for its medieval and cultural events. Visitors would be wise to try to attend the city during one of its cultural festivals or markets. Specifically, the Wittenberg Reformation Festival is well-known for music, theater and the market that sells foods and goods created exactly as they were hundreds of years ago. I have been to this festival twice and each time had myself a ball! Locals dress in traditional medieval clothing and the entire town literally transforms. Be sure to check out the goods sold at the market. You’ll find jewelry, cutlery, wooden figurines and other collectibles from your trip to Germany. Other notable times to visit are for the Christmas Market in November and December, and the reenactment of Martin Luther’s wedding during the summer.

I had seen the New Europe Tour guides playing the Pied Piper in Berlin in the spring of 2009.  Actually, I just wandered by as the tour guide was making a final pitch for tips.  When I saw the company was offering tours in Dublin, I was intrigued.  Mostly because they bill the walking tours as free and historical.  And if there’s one thing I love while traveling it is free history.

The tours start every day at 11 and 13 and meets at City Hall.  No matter the weather the tour must go on.  We tested this theory on the icy streets of Dublin, and while the city itself was running out of grit, the 20-25 of us in the group managed to trek through town with no broken limbs.

The walking tour of Dublin focuses on the main attractions such as Dublin Castle and Trinity College.  It is a cursory glance at the sights themselves, but the stories and history told give a great overview of the city, everything from the Viking history of the 800s to the 1916 Easter Rising.

Our guide, Christopher, did an excellent job of mixing the history of Dublin (and Ireland) with a healthy dose of pride in the city he grew up in.  In the end, they stay true to their word, and the tour is free.  Of course, tips (as mentioned above) are greatly appreciated and after a nearly three hour tour of the city, I was more than happy to give a few Euros.

The tour gave a great introduction to the city and helped to focus the remainder of the trip.  Plus, having never been to the city before before, the tour was a great way to get comfortable with the streets of Dublin and which sights were worth revisiting.